Home Energy Raters

A Home Energy Rater is a specialized contractor who performs an evaluation of the energy efficiency of your home. These raters can vary from experienced home construction and remodeling contractors, to specially trained utility employees, to certified ENERGY STAR, LEEDS, and other Green council representatives using the latest state-of-the-art equipment and standardized producedures. Energy Raters are frequentlly used in exising and new construction homes.

Existing Homes

If after reviewing your energy bills, you feel that your home’s performance may not measure up, first contact your utility to find out if they offer free or discounted energy audits to their customers. These audits generally use a checklist to review general energy loss characteristics of the construction of your home and will frequently make recommendations for improvements and give an estimate for the cost of each recommended item. If such audits are not offered, you may wish to contact an experienced, but trusted, energy improvement construction contractor to evaluate and make suggestions along with quotations. Finally, you retain a CERTIFIED GREEN RATER to evaluate and actually test your home for energy efficiency.

Although it is frequently not cost effective to modify an existing home to receive ENERGY STAR or other green certificatiton certificates, you may wish to do this if you are already planning extensive modifications or need to compete with other green certified homes in the real estate market.

New Construction Homes

A third-party Home Energy Rater is most prevalent and plays a huge role in the certification of ENERGY STAR and other GREEN homes. Such raters are retained by the builder before construction even starts to advise and help plan for the home’s energy efficiency cost and final certification. Inspection and testing points during construction are established, and the efficiency rating and verification is earned only after rigid product evaluation and satisfactory test results. In the case of ENERGY STAR, the verification and testing results are then sent to a Regional Home Energy Rating System (HERS) provider who will double-check the inputs, rate the home and most importantly, issue the ENERGY STAR certificate for the consumer’s protection.

For an explanation of ENERGY STAR ratings, refer to our October 3, 2008 posting, “How Do Homes Qualify for ENERGY ATAR Rating?”

To find a Home Energy Rater, visit the ENERGY STAR for Homes Partner Locator, or contact us for a list of “recommended” local providers.

ENERGY STAR Indoor Air Package Label for New Homes

 

Homebuyers today are increasingly concerned about the indoor air quality  of their homes. Issues like mold, radon, carbon monoxide, and toxic chemicals have received greater attention than ever, as poor indoor air quality has been linked to a host of health problems.

To address these concerns, builders can employ a variety of construction practices and technologies to decrease the risk of poor air quality in their new homes, including: careful selection and installation of moisture control systems; HVAC equipment; combustion venting systems; and building materials.

But it’s not easy for homebuyers or builders to keep tract of all the preferred construction details that lead to improved air quality and energy efficiency.

EPA created the ENERGY STAR Indoor Air Package to help builders meet the growing consumer preference for homes with improved indoor air quality and energy efficiency. Forward-thinking builders are distinguishing themselves by offering homes that have earned this advanced designation. A home qualifies when verified to meet the Indoor Air Package specifications, by a certified home energy rater.

Click here to download Indoor Air Quality Brochure for consumers

How do homes earn the label? 

A home must first be designed and built to earn the ENERGY STAR—the government-backed symbol for energy efficiency. The result is a home that is significantly more energy efficient than a code-built home.

Add indoor air improvements. More than 70 additional home design and construction features are included in the Indoor Air Package to help protect qualified homes from moisture and mold, pests, combustion gases, and other airborne pollutants.

Mold and Moisture in the Home

First, one must understand how mold, a type of fungi, lives. Many molds need simple things to exist and colonize. Most require a type of moist intrusion or humidity, otherwise known as “the wicking effect.” In some cases, it can take as little as 24 hours for this process to begin. After the source of the moisture has stopped, it does not nessarily mean that the mold has stopped growing.

Out of 250,000 species of mold, only about 250 are harmful to humans.

Moisture does not belong in enclosed spaces in a house, especially a crawlspace.

Some molds are cryophytes (these adapt to low temperatures), some are thermo tolerant (they adapt to a wide range of temperatures) and some are thermophiles (they adapt to high temperatures). Depending on the species, these microbes will grow just about anywhere. Mold requires a compatible temperature for each species. Environmental factors (temperature, nitrogen, oxygen, etc. ) are necessary compounds for indoor molds to thrive.

Mold also needs an organic source of food. People might be confused as mold can grow on glass, tile, stainless steel, cookware, etc., but it is generally feeding off of some organic source deposited on this material (oils, film, dirt, skin cells, etc.). The fiberglass insulation people like to say that mold does not grow on their product which is a fairly true statement, however, it grows on the organic debris that become trapped in their products. Mold also grows on things such as wood, fabric, leather, gypsum, fiberboard, drywall, stucco, and many insulation fibrous materials. All molds require some form of moisture to grow. However, like temperature, the amount of moisture varies for different species. Some are xerophillic (colonize under very dry conditions) some are xerotolerant (colonize under a wide range of moisture levels) and some are hydrophilic (colonize at high moisture levels). It does not have to be a leak.

Humidity or moisture content of the substrate can often be sufficient (relative humidity 50% start becoming problematic in many indoor cases.) It can spread very easily through any HVAC system.

Mycotoxins are examples of chemical substances that molds create generally as secondary metabolites, thought to possibly play a role in either helping to prepare the substrate on which they exist for digestion, as defense mechanisms, and some have suggested that they may be produced when the organisms are under stress, which could be related to competition/defense, or simply due to inhospitable environmental conditions. The mycotoxins, which are also neurotoxins (a toxin that is determined to cause neurological damage), most commonly reach people from the air, via spores from the molds in question. They are also found in small particulates at times which may often represent mold dust, small particles of mold that has dried and turned to dust. Spores, when inhaled, can begin to colonize in the sinuses and throughout the body, including the brain, lung and gut after a period of time.

Black and hidden mold in fiberglass wall insulation in a basement exposed to prolonged wet conditions from a wall leak at a water pipe entry point.

Under certain growth and environmental conditions, black mold may produce several different mycotoxins, including a very strong class known as trichothecenes. Trichothecenes are also produced by several common molds including species in the genera Acremonium, Cylindrocarpon, Dendrodochium, Myrothecium, Trichoderma, and Trichothecium. The trichothecenes are potent inhibitors of DNA, RNA, and protein synthesis, and have been well studied in animal models because of concern about their potential misuse as agents of biological warfare, due to their ability to destroy human health (mentally and physically), and never show up in an autopsy. Sick buildings are one of the three major causes of fungal illness in industrialized nations today.

Is there toxic mold in your home?

Every house has mold! It is a question of how much and what kind.

Mold can grow in places unseen and thrive there for long periods. Some pointers to help recognize infestation are:

• Look for stains in walls and ceilings, particularly those that seem to be growing darker.
• Look for colored spots on mold, such as brown, green or orange. This mold generally is toxic.
• Check for the musty or urine-like smell of mold.
• Do allergies act up more in the home than outside?
• Look for white-fuzzy, or even pink or orange coatings on surfaces, and particulary on floor joists and walls of crawl spaces and basements.

Is the presence of mold in your home a cause for concern?

Not all mold is toxic. The major health concern with mold is if someone in the home that has mold growing is allergic to it. However, just because you are not allergic to it today does not mean that you won’t become allergic to it down the road. It’s sort of like if you’re exposed to poison ivy–the first time you may not have any reaction but with continued repeated exposure, you may develop one that can drive you crazy. And the same thing with mold. Living in a molding house may take six months or five years before you finally become allergic and have to move of of your house.

What should you do?

• Control the growth of mold inside your home by keeping humidity levels between 40 and 60-percent.
• Always ventilate your shower, laundry, and cooking areas.
• Always be aware, and if you think you have a mold problem, contact us for a list of trusted professionals who can inspect and mitigate any problems. 

Resources:

“A Brief Guide to Mold, Mosisture, and Your Home” 

Carbon Monoxide

Carbon monoxide (CO) is the most toxic substance you’ll come into contact with in your daily life — in your home, at work, in your garage, car and boat.

Carbon monoxide is an odorless, colorless gas that interferes with the delivery of oxygen in the blood to the rest of the body. It is produced by the incomplete combustion of fuels.

What Are the Major Sources of CO?

Carbon monoxide is produced as a result of incomplete burning of carbon-containing fuels including coal, wood, charcoal, natural gas, propane, and fuel oil. It can be emitted by combustion sources such as unvented kerosene and gas space heaters; leaking chimneys and furnaces; wood stoves and fireplaces; gas stoves, gas water heaters; automobile exhaust from attached garages; tobacco smoke; electrical generators, and other gasoline powered equipment. Problems can arise as a result of improper installation, maintenance, or inadequate ventilation.

What Are the Health Effects?

Carbon monoxide interferes with the distribution of oxygen in the blood to the rest of the body. Depending on the amount inhaled, this gas can impede coordination, worsen cardiovascular conditions, and produce fatigue, headache, weakness, confusion, disorientation, nausea, and dizziness. Very high levels can cause death.

The symptoms are sometimes confused with the flu or food poisoning. Fetuses, infants, elderly, and people with heart and respiratory illnesses are particularly at high risk for the adverse health effects of carbon monoxide. An estimated 300 people die each year as a result of carbon monoxide poisoning and thousands of others end up in hospital emergency rooms.

What Can Be Done to Prevent CO Poisoning?

• Ensure that appliances are properly adjusted and working
• Obtain annual inspections for heating system, chimneys, and flues
• Open flues when fireplaces are in use
• Use proper fuel in kerosene space heaters
• Do not use ovens and gas ranges to heat your home
• Do not burn charcoal inside a home, cabin, recreational vehicle, or camper
• Make sure stoves and heaters are vented to the outside
• Never leave a car or lawn mower engine running in a any enclosed space
• Make sure your furnace has adequate intake of outside air

What If You Think You Have Carbon Monoxide Poisoning?

• Get fresh air immediately, open doors and windows, leave house
• Go to an emergency room
• Be prepared to answer the following questions: Is anyone else in your household complaining of similar symptoms? Did everyones symptoms appear about the same time? Are you using any fuel-burning appliances in the home? Has anyone inspected your appliances lately? Are you certain they are working properly?

What About Carbon Monoxide Detectors?

Every home should have a Carbon Monoxide Detector

• Make sure it is a CO detector and not a smoke alarm!
• Place the detector as near as practical to gas stoves, fireplaces, etc. or in the floor area
• Test the detector regularly and know the sound of its alarm
• It may be a good idea to have two or more detectors placed strategically throughout your home

Resources:

Indoor Air Quality: Carbon Monoxide

Volatile Organic Compounds

In general, products that are processed as little as possible are better not only for the environment but for overall heath. Many people are sensitive to chemical compounds. Products that contain zero volatile organic compounds are ideal since they don’t emit gases like traditional building materials.

Materials recyled or salvaged from homes slated for demolition are also good choice. Paint is one of the most common toxins in your home. Many paints will off-gas in your living space for years after the painting. Even some of the big-box hardware stores are selling NO-VOC (Volatile Organic Compounds) paints. They are more expensive, but will improve the quality of your living space. This is critical for allergy, asthma, and emphysema sufferers. 

VOCs include Formaldehyde, Phenol and Chlorine

Formaldehyde exposure is most common through gas-phase inhalation. However, it can also occur through liquid-phase skin absorption. Formaldehyde forms other carcinogens when it combines with household chemicals such as ammonia. Exposure to formaldehyde vapors can cause eye, nose and throat irritation; coughing;  headaches; dizziness, and other complication. The EPA ranks it as a probable human carcinogen. The main sources of formaldehyde off-gassing are building materials (insulation) particle board (cabinets, shelves, furniture), resins, adhesives, paints, varnishes, cars, cigarettes, burning wood, natural gas and kerosene. It has no odor but can be measured in the air. The source must be removed or coated (for the short term). It is also important to maintain moderate humidity and good ventilation as heat and moisture accelerate emissions.

Phenol is an extremely caustic chemical that burns the skin. Absorption through the lungs or skin can cause central nervous system damage, heart rate irregularities, respiratory disease, kidney and liver damage and death. Phenol is found naturally in decaying dead organic matter like rotting vegetables and in coal.  The largest single use of phenol is as an intermediate in the production of phenolic resins, which are low-cost, versatile, thermostat resins used as a plywood adhesive and in the construction, automotive, and appliance industries. Phenol is also regularly used as a slimicide (a chemical toxic to bacteria and fungi) in disinfectants; and as an anesthetic in medicinal preparation including ointments, ear and nose drops, cold sore lotions, throat lozenges, and antiseptic lotions.

Chlorine-based chemicals are commonily used in households. For example, the 1990 Clean Air Act lists chlorine bleach as a hazardous air pollutant. It is also the most common household cleaning product accidentally swallowed by children. Inhaled chlorine-based chemicals can cause respiratory problems including emphysema and bronchitis. Chlorine exposure itself is usually limited to industrial sites but household chlorine bleach can release chlorine gas if it is mixed with other cleaning agents.

Healthier Indoor Air Quality

Begin improving your indoor air quality today! Pinpoint potential sources of toxins in your home - store pesticides and paint in a cool, dry shed or garage -- reduce carpeted areas -- clean ducts -- prevent standing water in plants

Indoor air quality is a huge issue and we must educate ourselves and be vigilant in reducing the sources of contaminants. The EPA has identified it as one of the top five most urgent environmental risks to public health.

Their studies found levels of common organic pollutants to be two to five times higher inside homes than outside. Also, these studies indicated that while using products containing organic chemicals, people tended to expose themselves and others to very high pollutant levels. Such elevated concentrations can persist in the air long after activities like new carpet installation, pesticide application, and use of chemical cleaning agents are completed. And keep in mind that without proper use of protective gloves, these agents can enter our bodies through the skin as well as through breathing.

The three routes of exposure to indoor pollutants are inhalation, ingestion and absorption. Everything we smell inters our bloodstream, but not everything that enters our bloodstream can necessarily be smelled. Each day we breath ten to twenty thousand liters of air and approximately two heaping tablespoons of assorted chemicals and particles. Proportionately, children breath even more. Absorption of toxic chemicals through our skin can be just as dangerous as if we had swallowed them.

Tighter homes with efficient windows and doors will not experience annoying drafts and airborne dust. Significant sources of indoor air pollution (moisture, dust, pollen, etc.) are effectively blocked from entering the home. Health effects of poor indoor air quality often appear as allergy or asthma symptoms. Proper ventilation; and sealed duct work also protect against the build up of moisture and unhealthy air.

A green home uses products and materials with fewer chemicals, thus reducing volatile oranic compounds that are emitted as gases. Also, moisture control devices and fresh-air intake mechanisms are used to ensure healthier indoor air quality. Did you know that homes are a greater source of pollution than cars? In fact, 16% of U.S. greenhouse gas emissions are generated from the energy used in houses nationwide.

Tight construction and improved insulation also ensure consistent temperatures between and across rooms. Properly sized heating and cooling equipment cycles on and off less frequently, which removes more humidity and provides uniform comfort. Decreasing the amount of moist air that leaks through the house can reduce mold and mildew growth on or inside walls, ceilings, and duct work.

Finally, be sure that organic materials you decide to keep in your home are stored in a well-ventilated area. A can of paint thiner left in an unfinished area of the basement, or in a crawl space, can rust and inadvertantly leak a constant source of contamination into your home!

Asbestos

Asbestos is a mineral fiber that was used commonly in a variety of building construction materials for insulation and as a fire retardant.

Where is it Found?

Most products made today do not contain asbestos. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) have banned several asbestos products, and manufacturers have voluntarily agreed to limit the use of others. Any products made that still contain asbestos are required to be clearly labeled. However, many types of building products and insulation materials made before the 1970s contain asbestos. These products include pipe and furnace insulation materials; asbestos and cement shingles, siding, and roofing; millboard; resilient floor tiles, the backing on vinyl sheet flooring, and floor tile adhesives; soundproofing or decorative material; patching and joint compound; fireproof gloves and stove-top pads; and automobile brake pads and linings, clutch facings, and gaskets.

What Are the Health Effects?

The most dangerous asbestos fibers are too small to be visible. They can become airborne when asbestos-containing materials are disturbed or during improper removal. Once they are inhaled, the fibers can remain and accumulate in the lungs. Breathing high levels of asbestos fibers can lead to an increased risk of lung cancer, mesothelioma (a cancer of the chest and abdominal linings), and asbestosis (irreversible lung scarring that can be fatal). The risk of lung cancer and mesothelioma increases with the number of fibers inhaled. The risk of lung cancer is also greater to people who smoke. Symptoms of these diseases do not show up until many years after exposure begins. Most people with asbestos-related diseases were exposed to elevated concentrations on the job.

What Can Be Done?

Usually it is best to leave asbestos material that is in good condition alone. Generally, material in good condition will not release asbestos fibers. Try to prevent the material from being damaged, disturbed, or touched.

Periodically inspect the material for damage or deterioration. Properly dispose of damaged or worn asbestos gloves, stove-top pads, or ironing board covers. Check with appropriate officials on how to properly handle and dispose of those materials.

The only way to tell if an object contains asbestos by looking at it is if the material is labeled. Otherwise, you should have it sampled and analyzed by a qualified professional. Until you receive the results, treat the material as if it contains asbestos. Samples should be extracted only by qualified professionals. If improperly done, extracting samples can be more hazardous than leaving the material undisturbed.

If the asbestos material is more than slightly damaged, or if you are going to make changes in your home that might disturb the asbestos, repair or removal by a professional is needed. Repair usually means either covering or sealing the asbestos material. Covering involves placing a protective wrap over or around the material that contains the asbestos to prevent the release of fibers. Sealing involves treating the material with a sealant that either binds the asbestos fibers together or coats the material so fibers are not released. Repair is usually cheaper than removal, but may make it more difficult to remove later if the need arises.

For more information go to www.ParrishTeam.com

Lead-based Paint in Housing

When properly maintained and managed, lead-based paint poses little risk. However, over a million children have blood-lead levels above safe limits, mostly due to exposure to lead-based paint hazards, such as flakes or paint or surfaces that children can chew on or dust from surfaces that get a lot of wear-and-tear such as windows and stairs.

Lead-based paint is defined by the federal government as paint with lead levels greater than or equal to 1.0 milligram per square centimeter, or more than 0.5% by weight. Approximately three-quarters of the nation’s housing built before 1978 (approximately 64 million dwellings) contains some lead-based paint.

Lead poisoning can cause permanent damage to the brain and many other organs and causes reduced intelligence quotient and behavioral problems. Lead can also cause abnormal fetal development in pregnant women.

Nationwide disclosure requirements pertaining to lead-based paint have been in place since 1996. They are triggered whenever a home built prior to 1978 is either rented, transferred, or sold. These requirements apply to all transactions involving pre-1978 residential dwellings, except for: foreclosure sales; housing set aside for the elderly and housing set aside for the handicapped (provided no children under the age of six live there or are expected to live there); 0-bedroom units, otherwise known as studio apartments; efficiencies; lofts; military barracks; dormitories; rental housing that has been inspected by a certified lead inspector and found to be free of lead-based paint; rentals of individual rooms; and leases for less than 100 days.

Sellers and landlords of properties built prior to 1978 must disclose any knowledge of lead hazards in the home, and mustgive buyers and renters the pamphlet, developed by EPA, HUD, and the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), titled Protect Your Family From Lead in Your Home. (See link below.)

Homebuyers have an option period to conduct a lead-based paint inspection or risk assessment at their own expense. The two parties then have to negotiate key terms of the evaluation. There is no requirement for testing or removal of lead-based paint by sellers or landlords unless specifically stated in the sales or lease contract.

Resources:

To learn more about Lead-based Paint and other environmential issues visit our website.”

“Protect Your Family from Lead in Your Home”

Radon in the Home

Radon is a cancer-causing, radioactive gas. It forms from the natural decay of uranium found in soil, rock and water. It can get into the air you breathe, particualrily in unvented basemens. You can’t see radon. And you can’t smell it or taste it. But it may be a problem in your home.

Radon exposure is the second leading cause of lung cancer, estimated to cause many thousands of deaths each year. That’s because when you breathe air containing radon, you can get lung cancer. In fact, the Surgeon General has warned that radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer in the United States today. Only smoking causes more lung cancer deaths. If you smoke and your home has high radon levels, your risk of lung cancer is especially high.

Radon gets in through: 1) cracks in solid floors, 2) construction joints, 3) cracks in wall, 4) gaps in suspended floors, 5) gaps around service pipes, 6) cavities inside walls, 7) the water supplyc

Radon can be found all over the U.S. It can get into any type of building – homes, offices, and schools – and result in a high indoor radon level. But you and your family are most likely to get your greatest exposure at home, where you spend most of your time.

You should test for radon. Testing is the only way to know if you and your family are at risk from radon. EPA and the Surgeon General recommend testing all homes below the third floor for radon. EPA also recommends testing in schools.

You can fix a radon problem. The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) recommends that you test your home for radon and correct (mitigate) if your radon level is 4 picoCuries per liter (pCi/L) or higher. Radon reduction systems work and they are not too costly. Some radon reduction systems can reduce radon levels in your home by up to 99%. Even very high levels can be reduced to acceptable levels.

Contact us to learn more about radon and how to test your home. We will be happy to give you names of qualified and insured radon testing and mitigation specialists in the area.

Resources:

To learn more about Radon and “How to Test Your Home.”
 
A Citizen’s Guide to Radon: The Guide to Protecting Yourself and Your Family from Radon.

A website of Cancer Survivors Against Radon

Benefits of an Energy Efficient Mortgage (EEM)

While a conventional mortgage is generally based on a debt-to-income ratio of 28% gross income for housing and no more than 36% for all debts, the Energy Efficient Mortgage (EEM) recognizes that energy efficient homes cost less to operate on a month-to-month basis than standard homes.

Therefore, it allows lenders to adjust the ratios or qualify the buyer for a larger loan, since less money will be spent on energy costs. This is done by applying Home Energy Rating System (HERS) reported energy savings as income in underwriting the loan. To get an EEM from a lender, a borrower typically has to have a home energy rater conduct a standard measurement of the home’s energy efficiency. Certified by a RESNET (Residential Energy Services Network) accredited home energy rating system, the home energy rater inspects the home and measures its energy characteristics, such as insulation levels, window efficiency, heating and cooling system efficiency, etc. A performance test, such a blower door test measuring door and duct leakage, may be used. The home receives a point score between 1 and 100, depending on its efficiency.